Carved in Time - Khuổi Ky Stone Village

Known for its striking stone architecture and deeply rooted cultural traditions, Khuổi Ky’s origins trace back over 400 years and was established by the ancient Tay ethnic tribe, after 2000 years of hardship and migration from the southern regions of China and Cambodia. The Tay people, one of Vietnam’s oldest and most culturally rich ethnic groups, are believed to have journeyed across generations, seeking fertile land and spiritual sanctuary.

In the Tay language, "Khuoi Ky" means "small stream", referring to the stream that runs right in front of the village

Their migration was driven by a mix of political upheaval, intertribal conflict and the pursuit of a place where they could preserve their way of life. When they finally arrived in what is now Cao Bằng province, the Tay found sanctuary within the natural fortifications at the foot of Dragon Peak Mountain. They set about establishing a strategic defensive fortress, capable of withstanding attacks from marauding feudal tribes and bandits.

The entire village is surrounded by towering limestone cliffs & caves and the traditional stilt houses within the village are primarily built using large stone blocks. This unique architecture has earned the village recognition for its preservation of a distinctive form of authentic construction. Homes are built in a way that integrates seamlessly with the natural surroundings. The walls are typically made from rough-hewn limestone, while roofs are crafted with wooden beams covered by a layer of thick grass or palm leaves. The structures are designed to keep the warmth in during the colder months and provide shade during the scorching summer heat.

While the dominant religion of the Tay people is Theravada Buddhism, they have their own deeply woven, indigenous belief system known as Then (pronounced "ten"). It is not a separate institutionalised religion but a syncretic blend of animism and ancestor worship with elements of Taoism, localised and deeply embedded in Tày cosmology, forming the spiritual core of their culture. Central to this tradition are shamans or sorcerers (known as Ông Then or Bà Then), who perform elaborate rituals involving chanting, trance dancing and the playing of a traditional lute to connect with ancestral spirits. These ceremonies, often performed to seek blessings, healing, or spiritual guidance, emphasise the Tày worldview in which the human, natural and spiritual realms are intimately intertwined.

The Tày people believe in a spirit world populated by both benevolent and malevolent entities, with the latter often taking the form of restless ghosts, vengeful ancestors and forest spirits that can cause illness, misfortune or madness. These harmful forces aren’t demons in the Western sense but are seen as disruptions in the natural and spiritual balance, often the result of disrespecting nature or neglecting ancestral rites. One of the most haunting legends in Tày folklore is that of Ma Hia, a malevolent spirit of the mist. Once a beautiful woman accused of witchcraft, Ma Hia was shunned by her village and died alone beneath a sacred banyan tree. After her death, an eerie mist began to appear along the river trails and those who wandered into it were never seen again. It is said that Ma Hia’s spirit haunts the fog, appearing as a pale woman in white, luring travellers with the sound of singing or crying.

Over the centuries, Khuổi Ky has remained relatively isolated from the outside world, preserving much of its original culture and traditions. The village's strategic location, coupled with its stone-built structures, helped protect it from external threats, allowing it to thrive for generations. While the details of its founding are somewhat obscured by time, the legacy of the early settlers of Khuổi Ky lives on in the stone buildings and the stories that continue to be passed down from generation to generation, offering a glimpse into a way of life that is rapidly disappearing elsewhere in the world.

Location : Khuổi Ky Cultural Village, Provincial Road 206, Đàm Thủy commune, Trùng Khánh District, Cao Bằng Province

How to get there : The village is located approximately 2 hours drive from Cao Bằng city. Regular buses head to the area to visit the nearby waterfalls and will cost approximately 400000VND return. Many travel agencies offer multi-day tours that include a visit to the and village and other natural sites in the region, giving you better bang for your buck. We did a 5 day/4 night motorbike tour for $500AUD (which included food and accommodation)

Attraction Info : The village is always open and is free to enter. Given it's distance to the nearest main town, it would be worth staying overnight. There are many homestays in the area, which cost next to nothing.

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Khuổi Ky is the closest village to the breathtaking Bản Giốc Waterfalls and the Ngườm Ngao Cave

We stayed specifically at  Yen Nhi homestay, which was included in our tour package but the nightly rate is around $35AUD. You can read my review here : https://www.tripadvisor.com.au/ShowUserReviews-g15296786-d23400523-r1012915755