A six metre dragon swallows the gateway to Angurukaramulla Temple, its plaster fangs opening into a labyrinth of painted hells and supernatural judgement. Inside, grotesque demons mutilate the damned while the faces of Sri Lanka's kings watch from the walls. At the shrine of Suniyam, an older folklore survives, with the deity's favour mutating as the moon waxes and wanes. In Negombo, ancient terror and awakening occupy the same sacred ground.