Banteay Srei - The Citadel of Women

Chiselled from rose-pink sandstone, this beautiful, miniature Hindu temple was built in 967AD and is the only major temple credited to be built not by a monarch but by a Brahmin of royal descent. Named Yajnavaraha, it is believed he was an important scholar, philanthropist and royal physician who helped those who suffered from illness, poverty or injustice. Yajnavaraha, along with his brother, dedicated Banteay Srei primarily to Shiva, the destroyer and transformer, however, the presence of iconography associated with Vishnu indicates the non-sectarian nature of early Khmer religion, where various deities coexisted within sacred spaces.

The temple was built to honour Shiva, the God of Destruction

Banteay Srei, meaning “Citadel of the Women” in modern Khmer, is one of the most historically intriguing monuments of the Angkorian period. Covering nearly every surface, intels, bas reliefs and soaring pediments are all heavily adorned with some of the most exquisite, intricate and well preserved carvings to be found in all of Angkor. Like an outdoor art gallery, this entire complex is a masterpiece featuring embellished floral motifs, statues armed guardians, devatas and epic re-creations of scenes from the Ramayana. It has been executed to the highest standard, showcasing superior craftsmanship in three dimensional form.

 The entire temple complex measures just 500 metres by 700 metres and the central sanctuary is 24 metres across. The outer enclosure is surrounded by a moat, symbolizing the cosmic ocean surrounding Mount Meru, the mythical center of the universe in Hindu cosmology. Gopuras (or gateways) on the east and west provide access to the central area. Each gopura is richly decorated with mythological reliefs and floral designs. The central sanctuary includes three shrines arranged on a single platform, dedicated to Shiva, Vishnu and Brahma. These reflect the Trimurti concept central to Hindu thought.

In 1923, French novelist André Malraux was arrested for stealing Apsara sculptures from Banteay Srei. While the artefacts were returned, the incident triggered international attention and pushed the French colonial administration to increase conservation efforts in Angkor. Restoration began shortly after, making Banteay Srei the first Angkorian site restored using anastylosis, a method of reassembling original fragments. It remains one of the most structurally intact temples in Cambodia.

Now days, Banteay Srei is also the name of Cambodia's leading women’s rights organisation. The people of Banteay Srei, a non-government organisation, support community based prevention and intervention of gender-based violence. They work to include men’s participation in addressing issues affecting women and strive to enable women to exercise their political, economic and psychosocial rights to equitable and sustainable development within their families and communities.

These statues are usually referred to as Vanaras, the divine monkey race from the Ramayana. They are seated in vīrāsana, a traditional pose of readiness and devotion, with hands resting on their knees

Location : Banteay Srei District, Siem Reap Province, Kingdom of Cambodia

How to get there : Banteay Srei is further out from the main cluster of temples in the Angkor Archaeological Park, about 32km away from the town of Siem Reap. It is well signposted and the road is sealed all the way. You'll need to organise a private car or tuk-tuk to take you here, a day trip usually costs around $50USD. The Phnom Kulen national park & waterfalls, Banteay Srei, the Cambodia Landmine Museum and the Butterfly Centre are located nearby, to make the drive out more worthwhile. A trip via Tuk Tuk takes about an hour.

Attraction Info : Admission is included with the Angkor temple pass. Entrance fees are structured to accommodate various itineraries. A 1-day pass is $37USD, a 3-day pass is $62USD and a 7-day pass at $72USD. Tickets can be purchased at the official Angkor Ticket Office or online. Generally 3 days is sufficient time to explore the area. The grounds are open between 7:30am - 5:30pm.

Official Website : https://www.angkorenterprise.gov.kh/

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One of the most famous pediments at Banteay Srei shows the combat between Vali and Sugriva, two monkey brothers who are also rival kings

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