Batuan Temple

Shannon
Sep 16
5 min read

A Thousand Years of Devotion, Legend and Ceremony

In the heart of Batuan village stands Pura Puseh Desa Batuan, one of Bali’s oldest and most spiritually charged temples. Founded in 1020 AD and recorded in Balinese historical texts for over a millennium, it is rooted in something far older, believed to have been built atop a megalithic stone circle, echoing the ancient power of Stonehenge, where ancestral rites were once performed. Its weathered foundations hold the weight of centuries, carrying the imprint of forgotten ceremonies and the shadow of unseen forces said to stir within its walls.

Ancient Balinese temple with intricate stone carvings. Red umbrellas, statues, vibrant greenery, and cloudy sky create a serene atmosphere.

The name Batuan translates to “stone,” and locals often joke that the faithful here are “tough enough to eat rocks.” Beneath the humour lies a place of ancient power, long believed to have hosted animist rites before Hinduism and Buddhism reached the archipelago. Traces of this pre Hindu spiritualism still echo through the temple grounds, where myths and whispered legends linger among the shrines and weathered statuary.

Ornate stone statues and carvings in a lush Balinese temple courtyard, with colorful umbrellas and traditional thatched roofs.

The temple's creation is attributed to Rsi Markandeya, a revered 10th century high priest and its layout reflects the spiritual teachings of Mpu Kuturan, the influential Hindu sage responsible for formalising temple structure across Bali. Each building within the temple complex has a distinct philosophical and ceremonial function. The design is faithful to classical Balinese cosmology, where architecture serves as a bridge between the seen and unseen worlds. Pura Puseh’s architecture is both grand and otherworldly.

Ornate Balinese temple structures with intricate carvings, surrounded by lush greenery and stone pathways. Blue sky in the background.

The entrance begins at a five tiered candi bentar, a split gateway that looks as if it was once a single whole, cleaved in two by divine force. This leads into a landscaped courtyard adorned with statues, relief carvings and shrines. The second gateway features a richly ornamented arch entwined with vine motifs and bas reliefs, while the final twin gates open to the sanctum, a sacred space reserved for moments when gods are ritually invited to descend during festivals.

Ancient stone mythological statues with moss sit on a temple's stone steps. Intricate wall carvings and lush plants in the background.

The temple is crafted from solid stone, its shrines, halls and pavilions adorned with original Balinese carvings. Scenes from the Ramayana intertwine with depictions of mythic beasts and protective spirits, including Wisnu astride a bull, Siwa standing amidst skulls and a Bhoma head glaring above the entrance. At the heart of the complex lies a holy pool, its waters alive with vibrant koi, while a stone turtle rests at its centre, said to bear the weight of the universe. Locals leave offerings here to honor the ancient power contained within the turtle, a silent guardian of unseen forces that ripple just beneath the surface.

Ancient stone statues in a lush, serene garden. Koi swim in the foreground pond. Moss-covered carvings frame the scene.

Inside, you'll also find statues of the Hindu trinity, Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva and a central stairway guarded by elephants. The multi tiered shrines, typical of major Balinese temple layouts, rise from the inner courtyard like totems to the divine. The black thatch rooftops are made from chromatic palm fibre, adding a stark contrast to the golden ornamentation of the wooden beams and gilded ceilings.

Stone shrines in a temple courtyard, with intricate carvings and moss. Bare trees surround, under an overcast sky. A peaceful scene.

Legends abound. It’s said that two dragons guard the temple’s gates, allowing entry only to those whose devotion is genuine. Other stories speak of gods creating a sacred mountain nearby to shield the temple from spiritual harm. There are even whispered tales of miraculous healings and unexpected wealth bestowed upon those who worship here with pure intent. Whether these are folk embellishments or something more, the air at Batuan Temple carries a weight of age, of worship and of unseen forces.

Moss-covered stone structure with intricate carvings in a garden setting. Red wall and greenery in the background. Calm and serene mood.

The temple still functions as the beating spiritual heart of the village. It is maintained by the local Desa Adat (customary community) and serves as both religious centre and cultural stage. On the 1st and 15th of every month, performances of Gambuh, a court dance nearly lost to time, are held in its pavilion. Nearby, a modern amphitheatre accommodates tourists, offering daily Barong dances in the morning, depicting the battle between the noble lion-like Barong and the fearsome witch Rangda and Kecak fire dances by night.

Ancient stone statues and offerings in a lush Balinese temple, with intricate carvings and mossy textures, under a thatched roof.

During major ceremonies, the outer courtyard blooms with immense fruit and flower offerings. On quieter days, the temple doubles as a gallery space, with local artists displaying paintings, batiks and statuettes, celebrating the village's legacy as a hub of traditional Balinese art. Batuan is also known for its high number of priests and Brahmans, many of whom trace their spiritual lineage back to the very founding of the temple.

Stone sculptures in a traditional setting, featuring two large statues holding staffs flanking smaller figures. Red brick wall and ornate roof.

Their influence has shaped religious thought and ritual across the island, making Batuan not only a historical site, but a source of ongoing spiritual authority. Ancient, atmospheric and steeped in both legend and devotion, Pura Puseh Desa Batuan is more than a temple, it’s a living intersection of myth, history and ancestral power.

Two stone statues in red plaid sarongs stand beside an ornate golden door, set against a detailed brick temple wall adorned with carvings.

🗺️ Location

Jalan Raya Batuan, Batuan, Sukawati, Gianyar, Bali, Indonesia

🚆 How to get there

Batuan Temple is conveniently positioned along the main route connecting Denpasar to Ubud, making it an easy stop for anyone exploring central Bali. The temple is just a 25 minute drive south of Ubud and roughly an hour from Ngurah Rai International Airport in Denpasar. Whether you're arriving by private driver, scooter, or tour service, access is straightforward with clear signage along the way. I visited this temple on my way to Ubud from the airport and a one way driver cost me 400,000 IDR, with several stops along the way.

⭐ Attraction Info

The temple is open to visitors daily between 9am - 6pm, with the exception of Nyepi, the Balinese Day of Silence, when all public activity across the island comes to a halt. Entry costs 50,000 IDR, which includes the mandatory rental of a sarong and sash, required attire for anyone entering the sacred grounds. This fee supports the ongoing preservation and ceremonial upkeep of the site. While tourists are welcome during designated hours, local worshipers may enter at any time, especially during temple ceremonies and offerings held according to the Balinese 210 day Pawukon calendar. Visitors are encouraged to observe respectfully, as the temple is not just a historical site but a living centre of worship, where the spiritual rhythms of daily life continue uninterrupted.

What to Expect

Batuan Temple offers visitors a glimpse into the living spiritual traditions of Bali, set within a striking complex of carved gateways, shrines and pavilions. The atmosphere is both ceremonial and artistic, with rich symbolism etched into every surface, from mythical guardians to scenes from the Ramayana. If you arrive during a major festival or on the 1st or 15th of the Balinese calendar, you might catch a rare performance of the ancient Gambuh dance. Outside of rituals, the temple remains active with daily offerings and its courtyard often doubles as a showcase for local artists and craftsmen.