Batukaru Temple

Mahadeva and the Guardians of Batukaru

Perched on the southern slopes of Mount Batukaru, Pura Luhur Batukaru dates back to the 11th century, making it one of Bali’s oldest and most sacred directional temples. Situated 2270 metres above sea level, the temple was strategically placed as part of the nine Kayangan Jagat temples, designed to protect the island from malevolent spirits. The walled complex contains multiple shrines, bale pavilions and moss covered meru towers, reflecting centuries of devotion and natural growth. Its location, architecture and natural surroundings together form a sanctuary that has long been considered a vital spiritual guardian for the surrounding kingdoms.

The temple is primarily dedicated to Mahadeva, an aspect of Shiva revered in Balinese Hinduism as the master of air, water and plants. Known for his dual nature, Mahadeva embodies both the fierce, transformative power of destruction and the gentle, sustaining force of creation. As guardian of Mount Batukaru, he is believed to command the winds that sweep the slopes, the rivers that descend from the mountain and the forests that cloak it, maintaining balance between nature and humankind. The seven tiered Meru in the main courtyard serves as the temple’s central shrine, symbolising his dominion over the mountain and the cosmos. Two freshwater springs flow within the complex, one used for ceremonial prayers and offerings, the other for ritual purification. These springs are fed by the mountain and according to legend, ultimately trace their source to the mythical Lake Tamblingan, underscoring the temple’s profound connection to both natural and spiritual life.

The surrounding environment is inseparable from the temple itself. Dense native forests provide both sanctuary and sustenance, feeding Batukaru’s waterways and preserving the mountain’s ecological balance. Rivers originating here carry life far beyond the temple grounds and the forested slopes serve as natural fortifications, creating a living network of protection and spiritual energy. The integration of temple, forest, and water exemplifies the Balinese concept of Tri Hita Karana, the harmonious relationship between humans, nature and the divine.

Historically, Pura Luhur Batukaru has been the stage of one of Bali’s bloodiest conflicts. Around 1604, the Buleleng kingdom mounted a fierce assault on the temple, aiming to seize control of Tabanan’s sacred sites and assert dominance over the region. The battle was merciless. Contemporary accounts describe thousands of warriors clashing amid the temple courtyards, while hundreds of defenders, priests, temple guardians and local villagers, were hacked down or trampled in the chaos. Fires consumed the meru towers and shrines, leaving the once grand complex in smoldering ruins. Despite the carnage and total physical destruction, the temple’s sacred springs remained untouched and the site’s spiritual presence endured. Batukaru lay abandoned for over three centuries, until government led restoration began in 1959, taking more than twenty years to painstakingly rebuild the structures while preserving the memory of its bloody past. Even today, many areas remain off limits during rituals, honouring the lives lost and the temple’s resilience.

Batukaru's folklore crystallises the extraordinary nature of that battle. According to the Babad Buleleng, a revered Balinese chronicle documenting the region’s wars, royal lineages and sacred sites, the siege was unlike any other. The Buleleng forces, relentless and brutal, were suddenly driven back by a legendary swarm of ferocious wasps said to be sent by Mount Batukaru itself, turning the tide of the fight. Survivors tell of spirits of slain priests, scholars and devotees lingering on the grounds, eternally guarding the temple. Even now, on certain days, whispers are said to echo through the rustling leaves and the flowing springs, as though the mountain and its spectral protectors continue to enforce the sacred power of Batukaru centuries after the massacre.

Today, Pura Luhur Batukaru remains an active spiritual centre. Every 210 days, devotees gather to celebrate Saraswati Day, honouring the Goddess of knowledge, learning and the arts by reciting prayers and making ceremonial offerings. Beyond this, the temple is central to daily worship, purification ceremonies and community gatherings. The moss covered stones, flowing springs and towering meru continue to inspire awe, connecting visitors and worshippers alike to a history that is both sacred and resilient. The temple’s presence is a reminder of Bali’s enduring devotion, a testament to the intertwining of nature, spirituality and centuries of human history.

🗺️ Location

Wongaya Gede Village, Penebel District, Tabanan Regency, Bali, Indonesia

🚆 How to get there

Pura Luhur Batukaru sits about 42 km's from Denpasar and roughly 38 km's northwest of Ubud. The drive from both locations takes around 2 hours, depending on traffic and weather conditions, winding through lush villages and terraced rice fields. There’s no public transport to the temple, so hiring a local driver or joining a private day tour is the best option. Expect to pay around 650,000 IDR for a full day driver, though prices can vary with your bargaining skills. The temple lies just 2 km's from the UNESCO listed Jatiluwih Rice Terraces, making it an ideal stop on a scenic cultural route through Bali’s highlands.

⭐ Attraction Info

Batukaru is open daily betwen 8am - 6pm, except during Nyepi, the Balinese Day of Silence. Worshippers may enter at any time for prayer and offerings. There is no fixed entrance fee, but a small donation of around 20,000 - 30,000 IDR is expected, which usually includes the loan of a sarong and sash if needed. Visitors should dress respectfully, covering shoulders and knees, as this remains an active place of worship. Parking is available near the entrance, typically costing 5,000 IDR for scooters and 10,000 IDR for cars.

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