Kuanxiangzi Alley & The Blood Lantern Widow

Shannon
Sep 4
4 min read

Tucked into the vibrant heart of Chengdu, the capital of Sichuan Province, Kuanxiangzi Alley is a rare remnant of Qing Dynasty urban design, its origins reaching back over 300 years. Established in the late 17th century, the alley was constructed over an ancient military garrison and gradually developed into an elite residential area. Officials, scholars and wealthy merchants once called these alleys home and the architectural legacy they left behind remains preserved in the district’s narrow lanes, wooden structures and elegant courtyards.

Kuanxiangzi is not just a single alley but a trio of parallel lanes, made up of Kuan Alley (Wide Alley), Zhai Alley (Narrow Alley) and Jing Alley (Well Alley). Each had a distinct function and social identity. Kuan Alley, the widest of the three, was once a social hub for the elite. Zhai Alley, tighter and more private, served as access to residences and inner courtyards, while Jing Alley was named for its communal wells, a lifeline of water for the neighbourhood. Together, they form a harmonious slice of Qing-era urban living, still echoing the rhythms of daily life from centuries past.

Historic Chinese street scene with traditional wooden buildings, red lanterns and bare trees. Bright, sunny day; text on signs in Chinese.

Architecture in Kuanxiangzi Alley is characteristically Sichuanese, with low slung grey brick buildings, traditional woodwork and intricate lattice windows. These homes were designed around internal courtyards that allowed for light, air and moments of quiet. Today, many of these courtyards have been repurposed as teahouses, boutique stores and galleries but they still retain their original structure and ambiance. Walking through the alley is like stepping into a living museum, where past and present blend effortlessly.

But not all of Kuanxiangzi’s history is benign. The most enduring and unsettling legend tied to the area is that of Madam Liu, now known in local lore as the Blood Lantern Widow. A woman of noble standing during the late Qing Dynasty, Madam Liu was said to have lived in one of the grand courtyard residences lining the alley. Her life took a tragic turn when her husband, a government official and their only child died suddenly, some say from disease, others whisper of political intrigue. Grief stricken and inconsolable, she withdrew from society, rarely seen except for fleeting glimpses at dusk. Locals recall her pacing her veranda in mourning robes, a small child’s shoe clutched to her chest, speaking softly to the shadows. To mark her mourning, she hung a blood-red lantern at her door, which she vowed to keep lit until she was reunited with her family in the afterlife.

Traditional Chinese building entrance with ornate roof and red lanterns. Decorative carvings and Chinese text on a wooden sign above.

Over time, Madam Liu’s house fell into disrepair, its carved eaves rotted, garden overgrown and windows left to rattle in the wind, yet the lantern never went out. Even after her death, residents swore it continued to glow, untouched by wind or rain. According to Chengdu folklore, her spirit is most active during the Hungry Ghost Festival, held on the 15th day of the seventh lunar month, when it’s believed the gates of the underworld are briefly opened. On this night, some claim to witness a procession of dim red lanterns drifting silently through the alleys, led by a figure in pale mourning robes. The trail allegedly stops at homes where a child has recently died, seen as a sign that the grieving spirit has found kinship in shared loss. While many dismiss the tale as superstition, others swear by what they’ve seen and some shopkeepers even shut early that night, leaving red offerings at their doorsteps, just in case.

Child in red sweater stands by bamboo shelves with assorted dried goods and vegetables in a marketplace, featuring a large fish decoration.

Local belief in yin and yang energies adds another layer to the spiritual texture of Kuanxiangzi. Narrow lanes like Zhai Alley are thought to radiate yin energy, cool, still and associated with the spiritual world. In contrast, the openness of Kuan Alley carries yang energy, warmth, movement and vitality. This philosophical contrast shapes not only local folklore but also the very sensation of wandering between light and shadow, presence and absence, as you move through the alleys.

Bustling street scene with people walking past traditional wooden buildings adorned with red lanterns. Bare trees against a sunny sky.

Despite modern renovations, Kuanxiangzi Alley has remained remarkably true to its roots. Visitors now flock to its historic corridors for the full Chengdu experience, whether it’s sipping jasmine scented tea, tasting the tongue numbing spice of authentic Sichuan cuisine or watching a live performance of Sichuan opera or shadow puppetry. The area is alive with street musicians, craft vendors and the soft murmur of conversations in shaded courtyards, creating an atmosphere that feels at once timeless and electric.

Ornate temple entrance with detailed carvings of figures, animals, and floral designs. Yellow and red hues, with bold Chinese characters.

Recognising its cultural significance, the Chengdu government initiated a large scale restoration project in 2003, aimed at preserving the district’s heritage while adapting it for modern use. More than 30 courtyards were carefully restored, with attention to both structural integrity and cultural authenticity. Today, Kuanxiangzi Alley is listed as a protected AAA National Tourist Attraction, hailed as a “living museum” where the soul of old Chengdu continues to flicker beneath the glow of modern lanterns.

🗺️ Location

Changshun Shangjie, Qingyang District, Chengdu, China

🚆 How to get there

The most straightforward way to get here from Chengdu city is via Didi taxi, which takes less than 15 minutes, only costs only a few yuan and drops you right at the front gates. Alternatively, take Line 4 on the metro train and ride to Kuanzhaixiangzi Station. Take Exit B and you’ll find yourself just a short walk from the entrance to the alleyway. Many tour companies will include a stop here in their itineraries.

⭐ Attraction Info

Attraction Info : Kuanxiangzi Alley is one of Chengdu’s busiest attractions, especially on weekends, public holidays and during major festivals like Chinese New Year or the Mid-Autumn Festival, when the narrow lanes are packed with locals and tourists. While the alley itself is open 24 hours a day and is free to enter, most shops, teahouses and restaurants operate between 9am - 10pm, with the area coming alive mid morning as street performers, artists,and food vendors set up for the day. It's worth noting that many of the performers expect a small tip if you stop to take photos of them. For a quieter visit, early mornings or weekday evenings are ideal, offering a more relaxed way to experience the preserved Qing-era architecture. The area is well signposted in both Chinese and English and many venues accept mobile payments like WeChat Pay and Alipay.