The Forgotten History of Đồng Văn

Nestled high in the Dong Van Karst Plateau of Ha Giang Province, Đồng Văn Ancient Town carries within its narrow stone-paved streets a haunting blend of history, war and legend. This remote outpost near the Chinese border has long served as a cultural and military crossroads. The town itself is over a century old, with well-preserved architecture reflecting a fusion of Vietnamese, Chinese and French colonial influences. Originally founded as a trading hub during the Nguyen dynasty, Dong Van developed into a critical military outpost and administrative centre, setting the stage for centuries of tension and bloodshed between local ethnic groups, colonial powers and later, communist and nationalist forces.

During the French colonial period in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Đồng Văn was of strategic importance. The French built a fort overlooking the town to maintain control over the rebellious Hmong and other hill tribes. This fortress, still visible today, bears the scars of insurgent assaults and counterinsurgency campaigns. Oral histories passed down among local families tell of entire villages razed in punitive raids by both colonial forces and Hmong rebels. The French imposed harsh taxes and conscription, forcing the local population into a system of labour that bordered on slavery. Resistance was fierce and bloodshed was frequent.

As the Indochina Wars escalated in the mid-20th century, Đồng Văn became a shadowland of espionage and guerrilla warfare. Its proximity to the Chinese border made it a key point of infiltration for Viet Minh fighters during their campaigns against both the French and later the Americans. After the Geneva Accords in 1954, the area saw increased surveillance and persecution during land reform campaigns. Locals, especially wealthier landowners and tribal leaders, were labeled reactionaries. Purges took place in secret and mass graves are rumoured to exist in the limestone caves dotting the surrounding mountains. Some say you can still hear the whispers of the condemned echoing through the fog.

During the brief but intense Sino-Vietnamese War in 1979, Đồng Văn was again dragged into bloodshed. Chinese troops crossed the border and clashed with Vietnamese forces in and around Ha Giang. Though Dong Van was spared total destruction, its residents were not. Many were forcibly evacuated or conscripted and stories persist of ambushes along the mountain passes where young men vanished without a trace. Veterans still speak of skirmishes in the dark forests, where comrades were found with their throats slit, their bodies arranged in ritualistic patterns, possibly a form of psychological warfare or a return to tribal war customs.

Beyond warfare, Đồng Văn is steeped in dark folklore. The town is said to be cursed by the restless spirit of a Hmong shaman who was executed during a colonial crackdown. Locals believe his spirit haunts the stone streets during the full moon, whispering to the living and sowing discord. Some shopkeepers still place offerings outside their doors, chicken blood, rice wine & black feathers, to appease the entity. Other legends speak of “the weeping bride,” a ghostly woman in white who appears near the ancient market, crying for a lover who was conscripted by the French and never returned. Her appearance is considered a bad omen.

Another enduring tale involves a hidden tunnel beneath the old French administrative house. It is said that during the First Indochina War, French officers used it to torture suspected insurgents. The tunnel was sealed after several soldiers went mad, claiming they saw pale, eyeless figures crawling through the earth. Modern urban explorers occasionally attempt to unseal the entrance but local elders warn against disturbing the dead. One tale tells of a group of students who disappeared in the 1990's after entering the tunnel during Tet (the Vietnamese Lunar New Year). Only one returned, mute and blind, never able to explain what happened.

Today, Đồng Văn Ancient Town embraces tourism, with its once-weathered stone houses now transformed into coffee shops and souvenir stalls. This cultural melting pot remains a vital hub where local ethnic communities trade goods, socialise and celebrate their rich heritage. But beneath the cobblestone charm lies a weighty past. The land feels haunted, etched with memory, stained with blood. Travelers who come seeking beauty often find an uneasy stillness in the fog, as if the mountains themselves remember everything. And perhaps they do. In Đồng Văn, history isn’t something buried or forgotten, it’s a living, breathing presence that never truly lets go.

Location : Đồng Văn Town, Đồng Văn District, Hà Giang Province, Việt Nam

How to get there : Đồng Văn is a key destination on the Hà Giang Loop tour and is most accessible from Hà Giang city, the provincial capital. To get there, you can take a local bus or rent a motorbike and travel north along National Highway 4C. The journey covers about 160km's and usually takes 4 to 5 hours, winding through breathtaking mountainous landscapes. The roads can be narrow and curvy, so it’s important to drive carefully. For a more comprehensive experience, many travel agencies offer multi-day tours that include visits to Đồng Văn Town and other natural sites in the region, often providing better value. We participated in a 5-day, 4-night motorbike tour for $500 AUD, which included food and accommodation.

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