The Ogoh Ogoh Bali Museum of Demons

Celebrated in March, the Balinese New Year known as Nyepi is a truly unique spiritual occasion unlike any other in the world. Instead of loud celebrations, fireworks or street parties, the island enters a state of complete silence. No flights arrive or depart, no vehicles take to the road and even electricity use is minimised. Known as the “Day of Silence,” Nyepi is devoted to self-reflection, meditation and purification. It’s a sacred pause for both people and nature, a full reset button for the soul and the environment.

But before the silence descends, chaos reigns in the most theatrical way. On Pengrupukan Day, the night before Nyepi, Balinese communities erupt in sound, colour and spectacle during the Ngrupuk Parade. The centrepiece of this ritual is the ogoh-ogoh, massive, grotesque effigies crafted to represent demonic forces, mythological villains and symbolic representations of modern vices. These monstrous figures can soar as high as 20 feet and despite being built from materials like bamboo, wood, paper and styrofoam, often weigh nearly a tonne. Their terrifying expressions and exaggerated forms are deliberately designed to frighten and repel malevolent spirits.

The term “ogoh-ogoh” stems from a Balinese word meaning “to shake,” referring not only to their physical movement during parades but also their purpose, to shake off evil. They symbolise Bhuta Kala, metaphysical entities associated with destructive forces and cosmic disorder. In Balinese Hindu philosophy, these beings are not just mythological, they represent real negative energies that stem from human behaviour. As living beings release spiritual pollutants into the world through harmful actions, rituals like the ogoh-ogoh parade act as a cleansing mechanism, purifying the environment and restoring harmony between the seen and unseen worlds.

An important part of the Nyepi ritual and the ogoh-ogoh tradition is the presence of Rangda and her Leyaks, two terrifying figures from Balinese mythology that embody dark forces and witchcraft. Rangda, often depicted as a fearsome old witch with wild hair and long fangs, is considered the queen of evil spirits and a powerful symbol of chaos and destruction. Leyaks are mythical flying witches or demons said to feed on human flesh and blood, often believed to haunt villages at night. Both Rangda and the Leyaks play crucial roles in the symbolic battle between good and evil during Nyepi. The ogoh-ogoh effigies often incorporate their frightening features to remind the community of these malevolent forces that must be subdued to restore balance and protect the island’s spiritual harmony. Their presence in the parade not only invokes fear but also acts as a call to purify and strengthen the community against negative energies.

The procession also involves a symbolic act performed at village crossroads. Here, each ogoh-ogoh is spun counter-clockwise three times, a gesture believed to confuse and scatter wandering demons. The belief is that intersections are spiritually vulnerable spaces, acting as doorways between realms. To further protect these spots, small shrines dedicated to guardian deities can be found at nearly every junction across Bali. The spiritual geography of the island becomes a living battlefield where chaos is symbolically confronted and subdued by ritual.

Traditionally, the ogoh-ogoh are set ablaze in towering bonfires after the parade, reducing these demonic manifestations to ash, a final act of release and purification. However, due to the incredible craftsmanship and communal effort poured into their creation, not all ogoh-ogoh meet a fiery end. Some are now preserved in a handful of local museums, where they stand not only as haunting artworks but as cultural relics of Bali’s rich spiritual traditions. These grotesque giants serve as reminders of the delicate balance between light and dark, and the ongoing ritual dance that maintains harmony on the island.

Location : Jalan Ayodya No.1 Taman Ayun, Desa Mengwi, Badung, Bali, Indonesia

How to get there : The museum is located an hour from Kuta or 45 minutes from Ubud, close to the Taman Ayun Temple. I wouldn't go out of my way to visit this museum (as it takes only 15 minutes to walk through) however it is definitely worth a look if you're in the area.

Attraction Info : The museum is open every day between 9am & 6pm. The entry fee is by donation and goes towards the operation of the museum, so 20000-30000 IDR is fair. The museum is managed by a Megwi artist named I Ketut Nuada, who also opened it in 2013.

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