In the dark heart of Balinese folklore, the Leyak is one of the island’s most feared witches but they do not act alone. They serve Rangda, the merciless queen of black magic, whose monstrous face and pitiless power embody Bali’s deepest terrors.

Each March, as Bali prepares for the eerie silence of Nyepi, grotesque effigies of demons and witches are paraded through the streets before being set aflame. Yet not all are consigned to fire, some escape their ritual death and find a resting place in the Ogoh Ogoh Museum, a shadowy graveyard of towering statues where the spirits of chaos seem forever frozen in time.