The Ruins of Angkor Thom

The great city of Angkor Thom isn’t just a ruin, it’s a palimpsest of power, religion, blood and time. It’s where Hindu deities once danced with Buddhist ideals and where a king tried to become a god in the eyes of the world. Carved into the Cambodian jungle in 1181AD by the empire’s most ambitious rule King Jayavarman VII, this immense stone citadel rose as the crowning capital of the ancient Khmer Empire.

After crushing the Cham invaders who had ransacked Angkor in 1177, the King emerged not just as a conqueror but as a spiritual reformer with a vision far beyond the battlefield. He redefined kingship in the Khmer Empire, shifting the axis from Hindu warrior gods to Buddhist compassion. His rule wasn’t just about power, it was about creating a divine order on Earth, built on massive state-sponsored infrastructure, healing and cosmic harmony. Roads, hospitals and temples rose across the empire, all reflecting his belief that the king’s duty was not purely domination but salvation.

Angkor Thom has five gates, 4 of which are the cardinal points of the city. The 5th Victory Gate, is slightly offset and was used by the King when returning from battle

Built atop the bones of earlier cities, Angkor Thom sprawled across nearly 9 square kilometers, enclosed by towering walls and a moat like a fortress of stone and sovereignty. Within its boundaries rose temples, royal palaces, administrative halls and the homes of a population that may have reached close to a million at the height of its glory.. A sophisticated labyrinth of engineered roads, reservoirs and canals connected the city, fueling both urban life and agriculture. In its prime, Angkor Thom wasn’t just the heart of a Southeast Asian empire, it stood shoulder to shoulder with the great cities of the old world, rivaling ancient Rome in scale and complexity.

Local legend whispers that the face towers watch over the temple’s hidden soul, a buried relic from Jayavarman VII himself, encased somewhere deep beneath Bayon’s foundations. Some say it’s his heart, others say it’s a powerful talisman that grants divine rule

The famous Bayon Temple rises from the city's core, notable for its 54 towers crowned with more than 216 large stone faces. These faces are generally believed to represent Avalokiteshvara, the bodhisattva of compassion, although many scholars argue they are idealised representations of the King himself, immortalised as both ruler and deity. Bayon also contains over 1,200 square meters of bas-reliefs carved with chaotic & historical scenes of war, myths and aspects of daily life, a reminder that even an empire of gods had to eat, fight and bleed like the rest of us.

Beyond Bayon, Angkor Thom is home to several other monumental structures that reveal layers of Khmer architectural ambition and royal ideology. The Baphuon Temple, predating Bayon by nearly a century, was once described as the "Tower of Bronze,” its massive sandstone pyramid was one of the most impressive engineering feats of its time. Nearby, the Phimeanakas served as the royal temple, where the king spent each night with a serpent spirit who ensured the empire’s prosperity. To the east of the Royal Palace lies the Terrace of the Elephants, a grand stone platform used by kings to address troops, watch public ceremonies, and stage military parades. Its walls are intricately carved with life-sized elephants in procession, symbolising power and martial strength. Adjacent to it, the Terrace of the Leper King was named after a moss-covered statue once believed to depict a diseased king, but it more likely represented Yama, the Hindu god of death and judgment. Finally, lining the Royal Square are the twelve Prasat Suor Prat towers, whose exact purpose remains unclear. Some believe they were used for religious rituals or court ceremonies and others speculate they may have housed dancers or scholars.

Amazingly well preserved carvings inside the inner wall of the Terrace of the King

Following the Kings death in 1218AD, the empire began to unravel. By 1431, the once-mighty city of Angkor Thom fell to the invading forces of the Ayutthaya Kingdom of Siam, accelerating a collapse already in motion due to internal power struggles, agricultural collapse, depopulation and a fractured central authority. The site was largely swallowed by the jungle until it was documented by French explorers in the 1800's. Restoration efforts began in the 20th century and continue today under the supervision of UNESCO and the APSARA Authority. Today, Angkor Thom is more than a ruin. It’s a fossilised empire, a city where gods, kings and the ambitions of mortals were carved into stone. Every carving bleeds history and every stone murmurs secrets in a tongue older than time itself.

Location : Angkor Archaeological Park, Angkor Thom, Siem Reap Province, Kingdom of Cambodia - អង្គរធំ

How to get there : Bayon is located in the exact centre of the Angkor Thom complex. It forms part of the 'small circuit' tour and is best visited early in the morning, when the majority of other tourists are at Angkor Wat. A tuk tuk driver can get you around for around $50 USD per day.

Attraction Info : Admission is included with the Angkor temple pass. Entrance fees are structured to accommodate various itineraries. A 1-day pass is $37USD, a 3-day pass is $62USD and a 7-day pass at $72USD. Tickets can be purchased at the official Angkor Ticket Office or online. The grounds are open between 7:30am - 5:30pm.

Official Website : https://www.angkorenterprise.gov.kh/

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