Yangshuo County - A Journey Through History and Hills

Tucked deep within Guangxi’s dramatic karst terrain, Yangshuo's landscape is far more than a picturesque backdrop, it is steeped in spiritual and supernatural significance. For centuries, locals have believed the towering limestone peaks to be the resting places of ancient spirits, with many formations given mythological names and stories. One of the most iconic is Moon Hill, named for its crescent shaped cave, which legend says was created by a celestial blade slicing through the rock. Villagers once feared the mountain’s hollow echoed with the voices of unsettled souls and it was taboo to visit the site at night. Even today, some older residents avoid the area after dark, whispering that the mountain’s silence is not always empty.

Despite its reputation for tranquility, Yangshuo has witnessed periods of profound unrest. During the Taiping Rebellion between 1850 and 1864, a Christian millenarian movement turned brutal civil war, the region was engulfed in a violent undercurrent that left deep psychological scars. While Yangshuo was spared widespread destruction, it served as a hiding place for insurgents and a covert supply route. Oral histories passed down in rural hamlets still speak of sudden disappearances and ghostly figures seen walking the rice paddies at twilight. It’s said that some villagers never returned home and that their spirits linger in the shadows of banyan trees and crumbling ancestral halls.

The Li River itself, a symbol of peace and beauty, is also tied to darker folklore. According to one enduring tale, a bride drowned on her wedding day after her jealous sister-in-law sabotaged the ferry. Her body was never recovered and fishermen began to report sightings of a weeping woman walking the banks at dawn, dressed in red. In traditional Chinese culture, a red-clad ghost is one seeking revenge. Locals warn travellers not to linger too long near the river’s edge after dusk, especially during the Ghost Festival in late summer, when the boundary between the worlds is believed to blur.

Yangshuo’s ancient villages, like Jiuxian and Fuli, still retain an eerie, timeworn atmosphere. Some of their narrow stone lanes remain shaded even at midday, hemmed in by moss-covered walls and empty courtyards. In Jiuxian, abandoned ancestral homes have been left untouched since the Cultural Revolution. Locals claim that certain buildings emit a persistent chill, regardless of the weather. One house in particular, sealed for decades, is said to have been the site of a mass poisoning, an unsolved mystery that still fuels ghost stories among village children.

Vibrant Yangshuo Xijie (or West Street) is the oldest street in Yangshuo with a history of more than 1400 years

Even West Street, now buzzing with modern cafes and hostels, holds echoes of a more mysterious past. Before it became a cosmopolitan hotspot, Xi Jie was a place of clandestine meetings during times of imperial rule and revolution. Beneath its stone paving are rumored to be tunnels once used by rebels and smugglers. Old shopkeepers sometimes speak of hearing voices beneath the floorboards at night or seeing doors swing open without wind. Some of the Qing-era buildings have basements that locals refuse to enter, citing bad luck and an inexplicable sense of dread.

The surrounding countryside has its share of natural omens. The Karst caves scattered across the region, like Silver Cave and the lesser-known Black Devil Cave, have long been considered portals to the underworld. In the past, shamans were brought to these caves to communicate with spirits or to perform exorcisms for villagers plagued by illness & misfortune. Offerings of rice wine, pig’s blood & joss paper would be left at the cave mouths. Though tourism has since reshaped their purpose, occasional ceremonial offerings still appear anonymously, in hidden crevices.

West Street Gate is a traditional archway, marking the transition from the modern parts of Yangshuo into the culturally rich and historical heart of the town

Yangshuo also bears cultural layers left behind by minority groups such as the Zhuang and Yao peoples, whose animist beliefs still subtly shape the region’s folklore. Tree spirits, river deities and ancestral ghosts are integrated into their oral traditions. Rituals to appease these forces, such as burning incense before planting or placing charms at village gates, are still quietly observed. In remote corners, shrines built into cliff faces or nestled among bamboo groves suggest older, forgotten gods still watching from the forest’s edge.

Both ancient & modern artists have always flocked to the area to capture the beauty of the Li River

Today, Yangshuo balances its popularity with an air of quiet mystery. Its karst towers rise like sentinels, casting long shadows over a land where ancient memory and modern tourism coexist uneasily. Beneath the serene river cruises and market lanterns is a darker tapestry, woven with tales of rebellion, restless spirits and haunted paths. It’s this duality that gives Yangshuo its enduring allure. It's a place where beauty masks an older, wilder soul.

Location : Yangshuo County, Guilin City, Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous Region, China

How to get there : To reach Yangshuo from Guilin, the easiest way is by bus or private car. The bus journey takes about 1.5 to 2 hours and costs about 28 yuan, with regular departures from Guilin's Bus Station throughout the day. Alternatively, you can take a private car or taxi, which will cut down the travel time to around 1 hour, offering a more comfortable and direct route for around 400 yuan. For a scenic option, you can also take a Li River cruise from Guilin to Yangshuo, which typically lasts around 4 to 5 hours and offers stunning views of the region’s iconic karst mountains. This will set you back between 300 - 500 yuan and will include lunch.

阳朔镇

Official government website :www.yangshuo.gov.cn

The art of fan making in Yangshuo is believed to have originated over 400 years ago

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