In Chiang Rai, the celebrated artist Thawan Duchanee turned death, desire and spiritual fury into a world of charred timber, violent imagery and animal skulls. He was praised as a master, branded profane and saw his paintings hacked to shreds by religious fanatics. Then he built Baan Dam, a sprawling black estate where discarded bones were transformed into objects of deep contemplation and macabre beauty. This is the story behind Thailand’s darkest and most intriguing house o