In Chiang Rai, the celebrated artist Thawan Duchanee turned death, desire and spiritual fury into a world of charred timber, violent imagery and animal skulls. He was praised as a master, branded profane and saw his paintings hacked to shreds by religious fanatics. Then he built Baan Dam, a sprawling black estate where discarded bones were transformed into objects of deep contemplation and macabre beauty. This is the story behind Thailand’s darkest and most intriguing house o

Wat Rong Suea Ten, known as the Blue Temple, commands attention with its striking sapphire and gold tones, a bold statement in Chiang Rai’s spiritual landscape. Finished in 2005, it rises on the site of a long-abandoned shrine, quietly reclaiming a space rich in history. Local artist Phuttha Kabkaew envisioned a temple that honours the elegance of traditional Buddhist art while pushing it into a contemporary realm, creating a design that feels both rooted in heritage and unmi