Bayon - The Temple of Faces

Shannon
May 18
3 min read

Built around 1190AD during the reign of the powerful King Jayavarman VII, Bayon stood at the symbolic heart of Angkor Thom, the ancient capital of the Khmer Empire. From a distance, the temple may appear as little more than a chaotic pile of stone, but step closer and it transforms into a breathtaking showcase of Khmer "baroque" architecture. With its maze of corridors, looming towers and intricately carved facades, Bayon unfolds like an open air museum across three distinct levels, each revealing more of its grandeur and spiritual complexity.

Ancient stone ruins with intricate carvings and a large face sculpture loom under a bright blue sky. A tranquil, historic atmosphere.

Originally known as “Jayagiri,” meaning “Victory Mountain,” this ornate Cambodian pyramid was later renamed “Bayon Temple,” a change that likely sometime after the French colonial occupation. The temple features a total of 216 enigmatic stone faces carved into 54 towers. These faces, with their gentle expressions and closed eyes, convey a sense of divine watchfulness and spiritual tranquillity that continues to captivate visitors to this day.

Scholars remain divided over the identity of the stone faces at Bayon. Some argue they depict King Jayavarman VII himself, while others believe they represent Avalokiteshvara, the Bodhisattva of Compassion. In truth, both theories may intertwine. Jayavarman VII embraced the role of devaraja, a god king, blurring the line between mortal ruler and divine embodiment. Whether they reflect the king, the Bodhisattva or both, the faces stand as enduring symbols of spiritual authority and royal ambition. Bayon Temple, in all its grandeur, is a striking testament to both the creative genius and monumental ego of Cambodia’s most celebrated king.

Ancient stone temple ruins with intricate carvings and large face sculptures against a blue sky, conveying a sense of history and grandeur.

Bayon’s walls are alive with intricate bas reliefs, vividly portraying scenes from mythology, religious rituals and everyday life in 13th-century Khmer society. Stretching across 1.2 km's of gallery walls, over 11,000 carved figures animate the stone with remarkable detail and storytelling. Though King Jayavarman VII was a devout Mahayana Buddhist, he seamlessly wove Hindu symbolism into the temple’s art and architecture, creating a rich tapestry that reflects spiritual devotion and the fusion of two religions.

Among the most captivating of Bayon’s bas reliefs are the dynamic battle scenes between the Khmer and their rivals, including the Chams, who once invaded Angkor. These panels go beyond warfare, they capture the rhythm of daily life, depicting bustling markets, cockfights, fishing scenes and lively public gatherings. Together, they offer a powerful glimpse into the grandeur of the Khmer Empire, blending martial pride with snapshots of ordinary existence and the deeply spiritual lives of its people. They also reveal centuries of silence, war and forgotten lives.

Stone face carving on ancient temple with intricate details, set against a clear blue sky. Weathered texture and serene expression.

In 1992, Bayon Temple, along with the greater Angkor Archaeological Park, was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, recognised for its outstanding universal value. Praised for its architectural brilliance and cultural significance as the spiritual and political heart of the ancient capital, Bayon embodies the artistic zenith of a lost civilization. At the time of its inscription, the site was also placed on the List of World Heritage in Danger, threatened by looting, war damage and natural decay. However, decades of dedicated restoration have since helped preserve its legacy for future generations.

Stone face entangled in tree roots, serene expression, outdoors. Rich wood textures and green foliage contrast with weathered grey stone.

Location : Angkor Archaeological Park, Angkor Thom, Siem Reap Province, Kingdom of Cambodia

How to get there : Bayon is located in the exact centre of the Angkor Thom complex. It forms part of the 'small circuit' tour and is best visited early in the morning, when the majority of other tourists are at Angkor Wat. A tuk tuk driver can get you around for around $50 USD per day.

Attraction Info : Admission is included with the Angkor temple pass. Entrance fees are structured to accommodate various itineraries. A 1-day pass is $37USD, a 3-day pass is $62USD and a 7-day pass at $72USD. Tickets can be purchased at the official Angkor Ticket Office or online. The grounds are open between 7:30am - 5:30pm.

ប្រាសាទបាយ័ន

Official Website : https://www.angkorenterprise.gov.kh/