Gateway to Bali - The Soul of Tuban

Tuban’s Role in Kingdom, Commerce and Cosmology

Tuban, now a quietly strategic suburb just south of Kuta, was once part of the powerful and ancient Kingdom of Badung, a coastal domain whose influence stretched across southern Bali. Before the tourism boom transformed the landscape, Tuban played a critical role as a maritime contact point between Bali and traders from Java, Lombok and further afield. The rhythms of the sea dictated the tempo of life here and it’s believed the name “Tuban” is derived from tuban-tuban, a Balinese term that mimics the sound of waves in retreat, and symbolises the eternal cycle of life, death and rebirth. This concept is deeply embedded in Balinese cosmology, especially in regions like Tuban where the boundary between the physical and spiritual world has always felt thin.

Today, Tuban is often overlooked by those rushing to reach Kuta or Seminyak but its proximity to Ngurah Rai International Airport makes it one of the most convenient places to stay for travellers seeking accessibility without the chaos. It’s where you land, orient yourself and catch your breath before diving into Bali’s more frenetic regions. While the area is now dotted with hotels, cafes, malls and spas, a strong undercurrent of the past remains, most poignantly represented by Pura Dalems, temples that few tourists notice but locals do not forget.

As a Dalem temple, they are dedicated to deities associated with death and decay, particularly the infamous Rangda, the demonic widow queen of Balinese legend. Rangda is the embodiment of destruction, black magic and uncontrollable chaos. According to local stories, she once roamed freely through Tuban’s coastal forests, performing dark rituals and commanding legions of leyaks, shape-shifting spirits who fed on corpses. Even today, ceremonies here are designed not to glorify her but to appease her restless spirit and keep her malevolence at bay.

The older generation in Tuban still whispers stories about the nights when Rangda walks. On stormy evenings, when the wind screams through the palms and the waves pound the shore like war drums, locals believe her presence becomes strongest. Whistling at night is strictly avoided, it’s said to be a summons for wandering spirits and Rangda, they say, always hears. Children are taught to stay indoors after sunset, especially near the temple grounds, where shadows shift unnaturally and dogs sometimes bark at nothing at all.

Beyond its mythic shadow, modern Tuban offers a comfortable balance between convenience and culture. The beachfront is quieter than Kuta, ideal for sunset watchers and beginner surfers alike. Accommodation ranges from budget friendly stays to luxury resorts with sea views and the dining scene blends local authenticity with global options. Warungs serve freshly grilled satay and spicy sambal just meters away from air-conditioned restaurants offering imported wine and wagyu. The area is also well connected, with easy access to taxis, motorbike rentals and major thoroughfares that lead to the Bukit Peninsula or central Bali.

Still, Tuban’s greatest offering may be its layered identity, part historical port, part myth-laden land, part modern hub. It’s a place where Balinese death magic sleeps under tiled hotel roofs and where every sea breeze might still carry the sigh of something ancient. For the curious traveller, Tuban isn’t just a stopover. It’s a threshold, between past and present, myth and mundane, sacred and profane.

🗺️ Location

Tuban, Kuta Village, Badung Regency, Bali, Indonesia

🚆 How to get there

Tuban is literally 5 minutes away from the airport by car. Some hotels offer free airport transfers but a taxi will set you back between 70,000 - 100,000 IDR. Don't accept more than this at the airport as Tuban is literally around the corner. It is MUCH easier and cheaper if you pre arrange transport prior to arriving. Send me a message if you'd like recommendations for a driver.

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Sunset paints the skyline at the Gateway to Bali – The Soul of Tuban