Gunung Kawi Tampaksiring - The Mountain of Lost Kings
- shan157
- Apr 28
- 4 min read
Updated: Jul 29
Walking Through the Valley of the Kings in the Heart of Bali
Gunung Kawi Tampaksiring is one of Bali’s most unique and awe inspiring ancient sites, carved directly into the cliffs flanking the Pakrisan River. This 11th century temple and funerary complex remains a spiritual stronghold for the Balinese, blending profound religious meaning with breathtaking artistry. The temple’s name, Gunung Kawi, or “Mountain of Poetry”, captures the reverent atmosphere that still lingers among the stone. Often called the Valley of the Kings, the site’s layout and scale suggest it was created not only as a final resting place but as a sacred bridge between the mortal realm and the divine.
The complex is best known for its ten massive rock cut shrines, or candi, each standing approximately 23 feet high. These colossal reliefs are believed to honour King Anak Wungsu of the Udayana Dynasty and his royal lineage. The carvings include symbolic representations of lingam and yoni, ancient fertility symbols that represent the creative union of Shiva and Shakti. This subtle yet powerful iconography reinforces the Hindu belief in balance and duality and their placement in the heart of a jungle valley speaks to the intimate relationship between nature, divinity and legacy.
Beyond its historical grandeur, Gunung Kawi is infused with myth. One legend claims that a supernatural warrior named Kebo lwa carved the entire complex in a single night using only his fingernails. While historians attribute the work to generations of royal patronage and skilled artisans, such stories reflect the Balinese tendency to entwine history and myth, making places like Gunung Kawi feel as much dreamed as they are real. These narratives lend an air of mystery to the site, inviting visitors to ponder what’s fact, what’s folklore and what lies somewhere in between.
Spiritual ceremonies still take place here today, reinforcing Gunung Kawi’s role as a living site of worship. Locals bring offerings of flowers, fruit and incense, placing them before the stone shrines beneath fluttering penjor and vibrant ceremonial flags. These rituals are not performed for tourists, they are intimate acts of devotion, linking modern Balinese families to their ancestors and preserving an unbroken spiritual lineage that stretches back nearly a millennium. The continued use of the site affirms its sacredness far beyond its historical value.
Adding to the site’s enigmatic charm are the curious rock cut niches sometimes called “Hobbit Holes.” These small chambers dot the cliffside and are believed to have served as meditation spaces or simple monastic dwellings. Though their true purpose remains speculative, some believe they were once occupied by monks seeking silence and spiritual clarity. Their presence deep within the river valley suggests that Gunung Kawi wasn’t only a royal tomb but a living religious community where contemplation and ritual coexisted alongside commemoration.
Gunung Kawi Tampaksiring - The Mountain of Lost Kings is not just an archaeological relic, it’s a landscape where nature, spirit and story meet. The sound of the river, the fragrance of incense and the quiet enormity of the stone shrines create a rare kind of atmosphere. It's solemn yet alive. Whether viewed as a monument to royal power, a sanctuary for monks or the handiwork of a mythical giant, Gunung Kawi invites reflection on the many layers of meaning carved into its walls. In this Valley of the Kings, time seems to pause and visitors are reminded that in Bali, the past never truly fades, it lives on in stone, ceremony and story.
🗺️ Location
Jalan Gunung Kawi, Tampaksiring Village, Gianyar Regency, Bali, Indonesia
🚆 How to get there
The drive to Gunung Kawi Temple takes about 30 minutes from Ubud by motorbike or car. If you don't ride your own bike, a Go-Jek will cost about 250,000 IDR for 4-5 hours. With significant archaeological landmarks like Goa Garba, Goa Gajah and the Yeh Pulu reliefs, the region serves as an exceptional destination for those seeking a deeper understanding of Bali’s historical and cultural legacy, close to Ubud. Some drivers may mistake this site for Gunung Kawi Sebatu which is about 10 minutes away, so make sure you show them this address.
⭐ Attraction Info
The site is open between 7am - 6pm every day (except Nyepi / Balinese New Year). Admission fees 50,000 IDR for Adults and 25,000 IDR for children and includes sarong hire if you don't bring your own. Tickets are purchased at the official booth near the entrance before you start the descent. Depending on your mode of transport, parking will set you back between 2,000 - 5,000 IDR. It must be noted, the stairs to and from Gunung Kawi are a challenge, especially in the heat! There are over 300 steep stone steps, which can be demanding on those with mobility issues. There are plenty of small shops on the way up, so you can take your time and get drinks if need be.
🔗Official Website
