Otagi NenbutsuJi - The Temple of Healing

shan157
May 9
3 min read

Rarely visited and tucked away at the foot of Kyoto’s Otagi Mountain, Otagi Nenbutsu-ji is a temple that feels worlds apart from the polished shrines and crowds of nearby Arashiyama. Moss-laden, quiet and steeped in a peculiar charm, it is best known for the 1,200 stone Rakan statues that dot its grounds, each a unique, hand-carved representation of one of Buddha’s disciples. Their expressions range from joyful to meditative, grinning, laughing, sipping sake, or caught in silent prayer. Together, they form an eccentric congregation meant to lift spirits.

Pagoda surrounded by moss-covered statues, vibrant autumn trees, and a lit stone lantern, creating a serene, colorful scene.

Though it feels timeless, the temple’s story is anything but still. Originally founded in 776 AD in Kyoto’s Higashiyama district under the patronage of Emperor Shōtoku, it endured centuries of misfortune. Earthquakes, floods, civil unrest and long periods of neglect gradually reduced it to a few surviving structures: the main Jizō Hall and the temple gate. In the 1950s, those remnants were relocated to their current forested site, marking a quiet resurrection.

These statues are intended to marry the spiritual traditions of Kyoto with the kawaii culture of modern Japan

That rebirth took form in 1955, when Kocho Nishimura, a Buddhist priest and skilled sculptor, was appointed as the temple’s guardian. With the help of his students and lay followers, he introduced the Rakan statues that define the temple today. Far from solemn or severe, these figures were deliberately designed to delight and comfort, a reflection of Nishimura’s belief that spiritual spaces should heal the human heart. For this reason, the temple came to be affectionately known as “The Temple of Healing.”

Pagoda surrounded by mossy stone statues and vibrant autumn foliage. Fallen leaves cover steps, adding a serene, colorful atmosphere.

At the heart of Otagi Nenbutsu-ji stands the Jizō Hall, originally built in 1185, home to the temple’s principal deity, Fureai Kannon, the Bodhisattva of Love and Mercy. Unlike distant, stoic figures often found in Buddhist iconography, Fureai Kannon symbolises warmth and emotional connection. Her name "Fureai" speaks to the idea of hearts touching, of compassion made personal. She quietly presides over the temple’s moss-covered whimsy, offering solace and spiritual healing to all who seek it. Here, in this humble hall, the sacred feels deeply human.

Moss-covered stone statues surrounded by autumn leaves and vibrant trees, with a pagoda in the background. The scene feels tranquil and serene. — *Rakan, also known as enlightened beings are said to possess supernatural powers*

Jizō Bosatsu is a beloved figure in Japanese Buddhism, revered as the compassionate guardian of children, travellers, and especially the souls of those who have died prematurely, including miscarried, stillborn or aborted children. In Buddhist folklore, these spirits are said to linger in the liminal realm of Sai no Kawara, stacking stones in hopes of reaching salvation, only to be rescued and guided by the ever-compassionate Jizō. Statues of him often appear small, robed and childlike, with a gentle face and a staff to help open the gates of the underworld. Visitors to Jizō shrines frequently leave red bibs, caps, or small toys as offerings, acts of devotion or mourning that seek his protection for both the living and the dead.

Japanese temple in autumn with vibrant red and green foliage. Stone lanterns and moss-covered Buddha statues line the path, creating a serene scene.

Location : 2-5 Sagatoriimoto Fukatanicho, Ukyō-ku, Kyoto, Kyoto Prefecture 616-8439

How to get there : Take the train from Kyoto station to Saga Arashiyama. Turn right out of the train station and follow the signs to the Bamboo Forest. Turn right at the end of the bamboo and wander through the quiet, traditional streets north to Adashino Nembutsuji temple. Keep walking past this temple until you reach the red torii gate, go through this and walk for 10 minutes more. Otagi Nenbutsu-ji is on the left.

Attraction Info : Entrance to the temple costs 300 yen and your ticket will accompany an English pamphlet with information about the temple’s history. Kids under 15 years old are free. The gates open at 8am (one of the earliest to open in the area) and close at 4:45pm. Given that this temple is a bit off the beaten path, you may just find you have the whole place to yourself.

愛宕念仏寺

Official Website: https://www.otagiji.com/