Surat Thani

Shannon
Sep 24
3 min read

The Underrated Heart of Southern Thailand

The name “Surat Thani” literally means "City of Good People", a title bestowed by King Vajiravudh (Rama VI) in 1915, recognising the piousness of its residents. But its roots dig even deeper, this area was once part of the mighty Srivijaya Empire, a Buddhist thalassocratic (sea-based) kingdom that thrived from the 7th to the 13th century. You can still sense its grandeur in ruins like the Wiang Sa and Chaiya districts, which hold relics of that once glorious Empire.

White temple with intricate spires, golden statues at entrance, and decorative lamp posts. Clear sky in the background. Peaceful mood.

Chaiya, in particular, is home to Wat Phra Borommathat Chaiya, a stunning temple said to enshrine a relic of the Buddha himself. Believed to be over 1200 years old, it stands as one of the last enduring examples of Srivijaya-style architecture in Thailand, a glimpse into a once great maritime empire that shaped much of Southeast Asia’s spiritual landscape. Its gleaming gold and white chedi rises gracefully above the palm-fringed horizon, glowing serenely in the tropical sun. Despite centuries of change, this sacred site remains a timeless sanctuary, a spiritual centrepiece that time itself could not weather down.

Fruit market stall with red canopies displaying colourful fruits. Two vendors organise produce under bright lights, creating a lively scene.

If Thailand were a novel, Surat Thani would be one of its most underrated yet richly written chapters. Often seen as just a springboard to islands like Koh Samui or Koh Phangan, Surat Thani deserves more than a fleeting glance. Inland, Khao Sok National Park offers a prehistoric jungle landscape with limestone cliffs and an emerald green reservoir, Cheow Lan Lake, that rivals any exotic destination. Here, gibbons sing from the treetops and hornbills glide overhead.

Travel east to Khanom Beach and you'll hear the legend of Nang Gam, the lovesick giantess. Legend says Nang Gam was a gentle female giant who fell in love with a handsome human fisherman. Knowing their love could never be, she cried every evening while watching his boat disappear over the horizon. Her tears became the sea foam that kisses Khanom’s shores to this day. One day, when she tried to follow him into the sea, she turned into a limestone hill now known as Hin Nang Gam, “Stone of the Crying Lady.” Locals say if you listen carefully on moonlit nights, you can still hear her sorrowful sighs in the breeze.

Surat Thani might not feature on every postcard but beyond the usual tourist trail, the city offers serene landscapes, from its calm rivers to the lush forests that surround it. The slower pace here invites reflection and its traditional markets and humble temples feel like glimpses into an authentic Thailand, untouched by the rush of mass tourism. In a country brimming with bucket list destinations, Surat Thani is the quiet companion who doesn’t clamour for attention but rewards those who take the time to truly see her.

Silhouetted boat with five people rows on a calm river at sunset. The sky is a gradient of orange to pink, with trees in the background.

The Tapi River flows gently through Surat Thani, serving as a vital artery for local trade and travel, just as it did centuries ago

🗺️ Location

Tambon Wiang, Amphoe Chaiya, Chang Wat Surat Thani, Thailand

🚆 How to get there

There are buses and trains from Bangkok to Surat Thani however that will take anywhere between 9-15 hours! Surat Thani has it's own international airport and flights from Bangkok take just over an hour, with fares starting from 650THB (or $30AUD). If you're coming from Krabi, you could fly but the airfares are 4x the amount from Bangkok. There are regular buses that take about 3 hours and cost from 320THB.