The Rice Terraces of Tegallalang

Carved like emerald steps into Ubud’s natural amphitheatres, locals say the spirit of the rice goddess still watches over the iconic Tegallalang Rice Terrace, blessing the fields with life and balance. Also known as Ceking, the terraces are a large collection of beautiful verdant rice paddies, carved into the hillside by generations of farmers and shaped by centuries of Balinese ingenuity.

Balinese farmers still honour the ancient wisdom of Subak, an 8th-century irrigation system that’s far more than just a method for watering rice fields, it’s a spiritual philosophy. According to legend, the system was introduced by the revered sage Rsi Markandeya, whose teachings laid the foundation for a way of life that balances agriculture with cosmic order. It channels water from sacred mountain springs and rain-fed rivers through a vast network of canals, tunnels and weirs, all maintained collectively by local farming communities. This harmony between humans, nature, and the divine is central to Balinese Tri Hita Karana, the philosophy of three-fold happiness (connection with people, with nature, and with spirit). Recognised by UNESCO, Subak is a testament to how ancient knowledge can still sustain a modern world and remains a vital part of both farming and cultural identity in Bali.

The Tegallalang area isn’t just a place of natural beauty, it’s woven through with layers of mythology that are still very much alive today. Central to these stories is Dewi Sri, the revered goddess of rice, fertility and prosperity. She's more than just a symbolic figure, she’s believed to be a living force that watches over the land and those who cultivate it.

Throughout the rice terraces, it’s common to see small woven baskets (called "canang sari") filled with flowers, rice and incense, placed along the field edges or near water sources.

These offerings are made daily by farmers to honour Dewi Sri, asking for fertile soil, steady rain and protection against pests and misfortune. The belief is that when she is respected, the land will thrive and when she is forgotten, the balance is disrupted. In this way, the Tegallalang terraces aren’t just farmed, they’re spiritually tended.

On the approach to Ceking, the colourful Tegallalang Handicraft Market is definitely worthy of a look. The long road of wholesale type shops sell numerous woodcarvings, traditional masks and unique, handmade souvenirs at exceptionally low prices. Stretching nearly 10 kilometers on both sides of the road, it is not an overstatement to suggest this may be the longest row of handicraft shops in the world.

Location : Jl. Raya Tegallalang, Tegallalang, Kabupaten Gianyar 80561

How to get there : This is a short 25-minute drive north of Ubud. From Ubud town centre, take Jalan Raya as far east as you can go and then turn north. After about 9km's, you’ll reach Tegallalang, the terraces will be on the right. If you don't ride, grab a Go Gek rider. There's a heap of attractions to explore in the larger area and you can negotiate a rider for 4-5 hours for about $25AUD. Internet is a bit patchy in the area, so you're better off having a guide who will wait for you.

Attraction Info : This World Heritage Site is open between 7am - 6pm 7 days per week and the average entry fee will set you back around 50000IDR, depending on which entrance you use. If you deviate off the main paths onto private property, farmers will expect a small donation for allowing you to walk through their property. A fair donation is 10-20 so make sure you keep a small wad of lower nominal notes on you. Lunchtime sees countless tourist coaches arrive at this exploited tourist attraction, so as with nearly every attraction on the island, arrive early in the morning or after 5pm when it is quieter and the temperature is cool. Though the terraces are gorgeous year round, the best time to visit them is after the wet season between March and May.

Although they have zero interest to me personally, the whole area is dotted with insta swings and nests. Packages cost between 200000-500000IDR, so they're not cheap and the wait times are long. There are also skybikes and ziplines available to use for the same amount of money again.

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