Yu Garden - The Heart of Old Shanghai

Located in Shanghai's historic Old City near the City God Temple, Yu Garden (also known as Yuyuan) is one of the best preserved examples of classical Chinese garden design. It was originally constructed in 1559 during the Ming Dynasty by Pan Yunduan, a high ranking imperial officer. Pan built the garden as a retirement retreat for his ageing father, Pan En, intending it to be a place of comfort and tranquility. The name Yu itself means peace and contentment, symbolising his filial piety. Construction spanned nearly 20 years and the cost nearly ruined the Pan family financially. After the family's decline, the garden passed through various hands and underwent numerous restorations due to war damage and neglect.

Covering approximately five acres, the garden complex is a stunning embodiment of Suzhou-style design, marked by an intricate balance between architecture and nature. The space is divided into six scenic areas, each with its own unique layout, featuring elements such as koi-filled ponds, winding corridors, elaborate rockeries and traditional halls and pavilions. Among its most famous features is the Exquisite Jade Rock, a 3.3 metre tall porous limestone with 72 visible holes. According to legend, when incense smoke is lit beneath the rock, it flows through the holes in an ethereal display. Another iconic feature is the Nine-turn Bridge which zigzags across a pond and is believed to confuse and ward off evil spirits due to its non linear design.

Throughout its 400 year history, Yu Garden has endured multiple instances of destruction and renewal. It was significantly damaged during the First Opium War in 1842 when British forces invaded Shanghai. Later, during the bloody Taiping Rebellion in the mid 19th century, the garden was again a site of violence. These turbulent times led to the garden falling into disrepair and parts of it were demolished or altered. During the Japanese occupation of Shanghai in the 1930s and 40s, the area around Yu Garden was militarised, further impacting its structure. Following the founding of the People’s Republic of China, Yu Garden was designated a cultural relic and underwent extensive state funded renovations, eventually reopening to the public in 1961.

The garden also played a lesser known but important role in revolutionary history. In the mid-1800's, Yu Garden became a secret meeting point for the Small Swords Society, a rebellious group aligned with the Taiping Heavenly Kingdom, which sought to overthrow the Qing Dynasty. They used the garden’s winding paths and secluded halls to evade authorities and plan uprisings. These meetings turned deadly as Qing forces eventually discovered the rebel activity and attacked the area. Intense street fighting broke out around the garden, resulting in numerous deaths and structural damage. This association with rebellion has contributed to its reputation as a place not only of beauty but also of hidden conflict and resistance.

Several eerie legends have grown around the garden, especially concerning the Exquisite Jade Rock. One popular tale suggests the rock was originally en route to the imperial court in Beijing during the Song Dynasty but the transport boat capsized in the Huangpu River. The rock was later salvaged and ended up in Yu Garden. Locals believe the rock has absorbed centuries of emotional and spiritual energy, leading to stories of it "weeping" dew or blood on misty mornings. This has been interpreted as a manifestation of historical trauma or a supernatural warning. Scholars dismiss these as folk tales but they persist, adding an air of mystery to the garden's central features.

Yu Garden’s haunted reputation extends beyond the rock. Folklore holds that the spirits of those who died in the various uprisings and wars connected to the site still linger within its walls. Visitors and nearby residents have reported inexplicable cold drafts, whispering voices at night and ghostly figures glimpsed along the Nine-turn Bridge or within the dark crevices of the garden’s rockeries. Some say the Pan family itself was cursed, ruined by Pan Yunduan’s overzealous devotion, which led to the loss of their wealth and status. In this view, the garden stands not only as a masterpiece of design but as a cautionary tale about the cost of ambition, sacrifice and pride.

Location : North Gate at 168 Fuyou Road, Huangpu District, Shanghai or South Gate at 279 Old Street, Huangpu District, Shanghai

How to get there : Yu Garden is easily accessible from The Bund. You can walk there in about 20 minutes, enjoying the historic streets along the way. A taxi offers a faster, more comfortable option, taking around 5 minutes and costing approximately ¥24 - ¥29. Alternatively, you can take the subway by riding Line 12 from International Cruise Terminal, transferring to Line 10 at Tiantong Road and getting off at Yuyuan Garden Station. That trip takes about 30 minutes and costs around ¥5.

Attraction Info : The Garden is open to visitors every day excluding Mondays (but is open during public holidays), from 9am to 4:30pm, with the last entry permitted at 4pm. During peak season (from April 1st - June 30th and September 1st - November 30th) adult admission is ¥40. In the off-season, which runs from July 1st - August 31st and December 1st to March 31st, the ticket price is reduced to ¥30 per adult. Half price admission available for seniors over 60 and students who present valid identification. The ticket booth is located at the garden entry or via the parks website below and as with most Chinese tourist attractions, make sure you travel with your passport. Plan to spend at least an hour wandering through its serene paths and intricate pavilions, the park isn't massive but there's a lot to see.

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Official Website : https://www.yugarden.com.cn/

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